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Burnt veld near Phalaborwa gate, Kruger National Park, September 2023 after recent fires

Kruger Through a Mom’s Eyes — Trip 3: The Quiet Trip

September 2023 | Phalaborwa → Mopani | Ford Ranger

Some Kruger trips feel exciting from the very beginning.

Others feel quiet.

September 2023 was quiet.

Not in a bad way. Just slower. Softer. Long roads, fewer sightings and more time simply existing in the bush instead of chasing the next big thing.


We entered through Phalaborwa Gate and almost immediately the landscape felt different.

The fires had recently swept through large parts of the area and the bush still carried the aftermath everywhere you looked. Blackened veld stretched for kilometres, some areas still lightly smouldering with thin smoke hanging in the air.

At first it felt strange driving through it all. Empty almost. Especially when you know how alive those same areas normally feel.

But even through the burnt veld, tiny green shoots were already starting to push through the ash.

Kruger always reminds you that nature keeps moving forward whether we’re ready for it or not.

Burnt veld stretching for kilometres after recent fires near Phalaborwa gate, Kruger National Park


This trip was also different because we were travelling in the Ford Ranger this time.

Our older Ranger. Before the Next Gen days.

After previous trips in the Jeep Wrangler, the Ranger felt far more practical for the long northern roads. The Jeep had personality. The Ranger had fuel economy and common sense.

And with kids, long distances and Kruger fuel prices involved, common sense was suddenly becoming very attractive.

Ford Ranger on a Kruger National Park road, September 2023


Mopani — With The Kids For the First Time

This was also the kids’ first time staying at Mopani.

And honestly, I don’t think any of us fully understood the atmosphere of that camp until we experienced it ourselves.

Mopani feels different to the rest of Kruger.

Quieter. Slower. Almost hidden away.

The views over the dam, the silence at night and the slower pace of the camp felt completely different.

One evening we walked the fence trail while hippos grazed right below us near the fence line.

Not somewhere far out in the water. Right there.

Close enough to make you very aware very quickly that hippos are not nearly as harmless as cartoons make them look.

AJ was fascinated.

Chloé stood quietly watching them for ages.

The kids were older now too, which changes the entire Kruger experience. They notice more. Appreciate more. They start understanding that not every magical moment in the bush arrives with lions roaring dramatically in the road.

Sometimes it’s just standing quietly above grazing hippos while the sun disappears.


The Fish Eagle and the Crocodile

The sightings overall on this trip were sparse.

Very sparse.

Some roads felt almost empty, probably partly because of the fires moving animals around. Long stretches with very little happening at all.

But Kruger always gives you something eventually.

And this trip gave us one of the most unforgettable sequences we’ve ever witnessed.

We were near the Letaba River when we spotted the fish eagle.

Completely still above the water.

Then suddenly it launched.

African fish eagle launching from a tree above the Letaba River, Kruger National Park

Straight into the river. It came out holding a massive fish, but almost immediately you could see the problem — the fish was too heavy. The eagle fought to gain lift while the fish thrashed wildly beneath it.

The whole car went silent.

African fish eagle struggling to lift a large fish from the Letaba River, Kruger National Park

Eventually, somehow, the eagle managed to drag the fish clear of the water and onto the bank.

Victory.

Or so we thought.

Because within seconds a crocodile appeared.

Completely calm. Completely patient. Like it had watched this exact situation unfold many times before.

And just like that, the fish was gone.

Crocodile stealing the fish from the fish eagle on the bank of the Letaba River, Kruger National Park

The crocodile stole it effortlessly.

The eagle stood there looking genuinely offended while we all sat in disbelief at what we’d just watched.

Honestly, it felt like the perfect Kruger moment.

No fairness. No guarantees. Just nature carrying on exactly the way it always has.


The Elephant Museum at Letaba

We also spent time at the Letaba Elephant Museum during this trip and it ended up being one of those unexpectedly memorable stops.

Standing next to replicas of the great tuskers’ tusks completely resets your understanding of how enormous those elephants really were.

We know elephants are big. We’ve sat behind entire herds on Kruger roads waiting patiently while they crossed at their own pace. But standing next to a life-sized tusk and realising it’s taller than you are — that’s different.

Watching AJ quietly stare up at one of the tusks without saying much at all became one of my favourite moments from the entire trip.

No excitement. No chaos. Just quiet awe.

Life-sized tusker tusk replicas at the Letaba Elephant Museum, Kruger National Park

And somehow that perfectly matched the entire feel of this trip.


The trip ended the same way it started.

Quietly.

Burnt veld. Long roads. Soft evenings at Mopani. Sparse sightings mixed with moments we’ll probably remember forever.

No huge sightings. No nonstop action.

Just the fish eagle’s indignant stare after losing its lunch. AJ’s silence beside a tusk taller than he was. Chloé watching hippos until the light was completely gone.

Some trips teach you that Kruger doesn’t owe you anything.

And that sometimes, what it chooses to give you instead is better than what you came looking for.

Sunset over Mopani dam, Kruger National ParkDriving out through Phalaborwa gate at the end of the trip, Kruger National Park


This is Part 3 of the Kruger Through a Mom’s Eyes series. Part 4 coming soon.

Danyel Kitching is the co-founder of Alpha Accessories, a 4x4 fitment centre in Centurion. The Ford Ranger has since been upgraded to the Next Gen. The camping crates remain non-negotiable.

Next article Kruger Through a Mom’s Eyes — Trip 2: The Birthday Trip